How to Pack Mirror For Moving

Written, Edited and Fact Checked by Taras Kim

Fact Checked by Wellknown Moving

Updated: October 22, 2025

Safety first

Mirrors are fragile and heavy objects, especially large wall mirrors. The main rule is to always store and transport mirrors vertically, on their edge.

Mark the box: THIS END UP / DO NOT LAY FLAT so that no one puts it horizontally.

Mirrors larger than 24 × 16 in (60×40 cm) or heavier than 20–25 lb (10 kg) should be carried by two people. One person directs, the other watches for corners and obstacles. Hold the mirror by the sides, close to your body, strictly vertically.

Before packing, inspect the frame and glass for cracks, looseness, or weak fastenings. If in doubt, reinforce the back or consult a specialist. Place the mirror on a soft pad, do not put anything on top of it, and do not leave it lying down.

In case of damage, keep the following items handy: gloves, goggles, a dustpan, cardboard, bags, and a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter. If the mirror breaks, move people away, carefully collect the shards, and check the area under bright light.

Prepare the space: clear the aisles, open the doors, remove food and liquids. Take your time, do not walk backwards, do not lift by the suspension, and do not touch the broken glass with your hands.

A little caution from the start will help you avoid serious problems during transport.

Determine the mounting system and remove the mirror safely

Before you begin, find out how the mirror is attached to the wall. Most often, wire with D-shaped rings is used: two rings are connected by a wire stretched between them. To remove such a mirror, one person holds it by the bottom edge while the other lifts the frame about half an inch until the wire slips off the hook. Only then can you carefully move the mirror away from the wall. Do not turn the frame, as this may damage the paint and fastenings.

A sawtooth mount is a metal strip with teeth in the middle of the top edge. Remove the mirror in the same way: lift it up, then tilt it slightly away from the wall. Place a towel under the mirror to avoid scratching the surface. If the mirror does not come off, lift it a little higher.

Heavy mirrors are often held in place by French or Z-shaped fasteners. These do not have wire — the frame hangs on two connected strips. Remove such a mirror slowly: lift it “up and away” while an assistant holds the bottom edge. Sometimes the mirror needs to be moved slightly to the side before it comes loose. Do not pull with force.

Safety tips:

• Place a towel under the top of the frame to avoid scratching the wall.
• Mirrors larger than 24×16 inches or weighing more than 22 pounds should be removed by two people.
• After removal, hold the mirror upright and carry it to a soft table prepared in advance.
• Keep all fasteners together. Place the wire, rings, screws, and anchors in a zippered bag, label it (“Hallway mirror - D-rings + wire”), and attach the bag to the outside of the box, not the frame.

Materials (with exact specifications and quantities)

When it comes to glass, the container is just as important as the wrapping. Use a telescopic box for mirrors or paintings made of double-layer corrugated cardboard (look for the 44 ECT label or similar). After packing, there should be about ¾ - 2 in of space on each side—enough for cushioning, but not so much that the mirror can shift during transport.

Cushioning is created in layers. Start with 3/16-inch (≈4.5 mm) bubble wrap for even coverage and complete surface protection. Reinforce corners and voids with 1/2-inch (≈12 mm) film. Add corner protectors that match the thickness of the frame — foam L-profiles are best, but tightly fitted corners made of folded cardboard will do if necessary. Place rigid face protection on the glass itself: corrugated cardboard sheets (in two layers) or foam board (3/16 inch for small and medium frames, 1/2 inch for large or fragile frames). This distributes the load upon impact and prevents it from concentrating in one spot.

Choosing tape is not a matter of aesthetics. Seal boxes with water-activated tape (WAT tape) — it melts into the paper and does not come off when exposed to vibration. Then wrap the box with reinforced tape (filament tape) — once lengthwise and once crosswise. Use painter's tape only on glass to hold fragments in place — never stick it on gilded or lacquered frames.

For internal wrapping and filling voids, use soft packing paper; if you are protecting works of art or unglazed canvas, use only acid-free paper. Keep moving blankets handy to cover your work surface and protect edges. Finish the packaging by clearly labeling several sides of the box with a marker: FRAGILE / GLASS / THIS END UP / DO NOT LAY FLAT. GLASS / THIS END UP / DO NOT LAY FLAT).

Pro tip: Don't use foam peanuts as packing material — they shift around, create uneven pressure, and allow the mirror to “float” inside the package.

Surface preparation and protection

Before packing, clean the glass so as not to seal in dust or small particles. Use an ammonia-free cleaner or a little distilled water and a microfiber cloth, wiping from the center to the edges. Do not allow moisture to get under the edge of the frame.

If the mirror is antique or gilded, do not use any chemicals, only dry cleaning. If in doubt, test a small area: if clouding or flaking occurs, stop immediately.

To prevent the glass from shattering if damaged, apply painter's tape in a criss-cross or grid pattern, only on the glass, without touching the frame. Apply lightly and use soft tape to avoid leaving marks.

To protect the surface from impact and static attraction of bubble wrap, cover the glass with a rigid panel of corrugated cardboard or foam cardboard cut to size. If the frame protrudes, insert the panel inside; if it is flush, cover the entire front. Attach the panel only to the paper or outer packaging, not to the frame.

The main goal is clean glass, protection from shards, even pressure, and no glue on the finish.

Wrapping Workflow

• Work on a soft surface at waist level, holding the mirror strictly vertically.
• First, wrap the mirror in soft paper, securing the tape only to the paper — this creates a protective “sleeve” without glue on the frame.
• Install corner protectors — made of foam or cardboard, tightly but without pressure.
• Wrap the mirror with 2–3 layers of 3/16“ bubble wrap, adding 1/2” to the corners and gaps.
• Secure the package with reinforced tape crisscrossed over the bubble wrap so that it does not shift during transport.
• Label the outside: GLASS SIDE and apply directional arrows — this will help avoid mistakes when stacking.

Boxing the Mirror (telescoping picture box)

Assemble the box in advance: use double-layer cardboard (44 ECT), seal the bottom with water-activated kraft tape, and lay down a soft lining—crumpled paper or a moving blanket. This will prevent impact and slipping.

Place the mirror upright, carefully lower the bottom edge onto the padding, and guide it into the first half of the box. Leave a gap of about 1–2 inches on each side. If there is more space, add bubble wrap or foam, but do not use foam pellets.

Place the second half of the box on top, slide them together tightly, and check that everything is level. Seal all joints with kraft tape, then reinforce with duct tape in a crisscross pattern.

Check the packaging — there should be no play when gently rocking it; if necessary, add more cushioning and reseal.

If you need to pack several mirrors, separate them with cardboard dividers so that the glass does not touch. If in doubt, it is better to place each mirror in a separate box.

Finish the packaging with the following labels: FRAGILE / GLASS / THIS END UP / DO NOT LAY FLAT.

Transportation and securing during transport

Mirrors should only be transported vertically, on their edge. In the truck bed, turn them glass-side inwards and place a soft layer of blanket between the wall and the box. Place the box securely, but without pressure, like a book on a shelf. If the bottom is uneven, place a towel underneath and do not tighten the straps too much. Secure the box with straps criss-crossed (in the shape of the letter A) at approximately shoulder level. Tighten the straps until there is no slack, but without excessive tension. For long journeys, add one horizontal strap. Place soft dividers (pillows, blankets) around the mirror so that other items do not touch or press on the glass. Do not place anything on top of it or squeeze it between heavy objects. For antique and valuable frames, use a car with climate control; after arrival, allow the mirrors to acclimate to the temperature before unpacking. Before departure, make sure that the mirrors are standing upright, facing inward, the wall is protected, the straps form a smooth “A” shape, and the structure is stable. If something looks unreliable, fix it immediately. There is no room for error on the road.

Unloading, unpacking and inspection

1. Prepare the area. Before unloading, clear some space, cover the floor with a blanket near a stable wall, open the doors, and make sure the path from the truck is free.
2. Remove the straps carefully. Hold the box with one hand, take off the bottom strap first, then the top one. Cut the straps away from the box so you don’t damage the cardboard. Slide the box straight out, without tilting, and carry it upright.
3. Open from the top. Telescopic boxes open easily: cut the tape along the top seam, remove the reinforcement, and lift off the upper part. Do not lay the box flat — the mirror must stay vertical.
4. Lift together. One person holds the top, the other the bottom. Raise the mirror a few centimeters, free the box sides, and move it to a table with a soft layer, keeping it upright.
5. Check the condition. Before unpacking, take pictures of the box and any visible marks. Examine the glass under side light for cracks, chips, or pressure signs. Check the frame joints and fittings. If you notice anything unusual, take photos and keep all materials.
6. Record any damage. Report issues on the day of delivery, attach photos, the list number, and the receipt. Even if you packed the item yourself but damage occurred during transport, still inform the company. For insured items, follow your policy rules.
7. Final check. Make sure the frame is even, the mounts are intact, and the glass doesn’t move. Clean the mirror from dust, store fittings in a labeled bag. Keep the mirror standing upright until installation and don’t throw away the packaging until you’re sure no claim will be needed.

Special cases and professional advice

Large and floor mirrors.

Large mirrors can bend and make noise even when well packaged. Before placing the mirror in the box, make a “sandwich” of foam board in front and behind it, and add thin wooden slats around the edges, securing them to the packaging rather than the frame. If the mirror is difficult to hold with two people, the frame bends, or the item does not fit through the doorway, you need a rigid crate, not a simple box.

Frameless mirrors and panels.

Use vacuum suction cups and edge protectors, and keep the mirrors strictly vertical. Do not stick tape to the back, as this may damage the reflective layer. For bathroom mirrors, dry the back surface thoroughly. If the mirror is glued with mastic and does not come off, do not try to peel it off—call a specialist.

Antique and gilded frames.

Do not stick tape on gilding. Cover the surface with acid-free paper, place stiff cardboard and bubble wrap on top. If there are signs of flaking or cracks, stop — such items need soft packaging and a wooden box.

Mirrored furniture and cabinet doors.

Remove the hardware, place it in a bag, and label it. Pack each door separately: front protection, corner profiles, full wrapping, box. Place them vertically in the truck bed so that the glass does not touch other items.